San Domenico Maggiore If you visit only one church in Naples, choose this dark, Gothic church, parts of which date from the 14th century. Seek out the beautiful frescoes by Pietro Cavallini, a contemporary of Giotto, and the sacristy with its array of Aragon coffins.
Cappella Sansevero The typical Neapolitan taste for theatrical architecture is taken to extremes in this private chapel, commissioned by eccentric prince Raimondo di Sangro in the 18th century.
Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli offers a monumental array of antique art, mixing the Farnese classical sculpture collection with exhibits from Pompeii, Herculaneum and Stabiae.
Museo Nazionale di Capodimonte Along with the paintings and decorative Farnese art, Capodimonte is worth a visit for the setting: a sumptuous villa in a leafy park, high above the chaotic centro storico and its exquisite Titians and Caravaggios.
Pompeii is worth a visit and is less than an hour from downtown Naples. It is best to go out of season or very early in the morning and wander away from the main streets and villas to plug into the intimate, domestic side of life in this provincial Roman town, which came to an abrupt end one day in 79 AD.
Where to stay
Romeo via Cristoforo Colombo 45, Naples (romeohotel.it). This former shipping company headquarters made-over by architect Kenzo Tange is situated opposite the tourist port, which is the gateway to the islands of Capri and Ischia. There are 83 rooms and suites, most with sea views and filled with moderns conveniences such as espresso machines. Its Michelin star rooftop restaurant, Il Comandante, serves Neapolitan cuisine and a Samurai sushi bar on the ground floor offers a more casual dining alternative.
Costantinopoli 104 via Santa Maria di Costantinopoli 104, Naples (costantinopoli104.it). This late 19th century villa in the center of Naples with stained-glass windows has been turned into a 19-room boutique hotel. It is a comfortable townhouse hideaway, with soft, modern-classic bedrooms and a small, palm-shaded swimming pool. Book a first-floor room in the main villa rather than one of the darker garden suites.
Excelsior via Partenope 48, Naples (excelsior.it). A little dolce vita atmosphere still lingers in this 1908 gem, which offers old-fashioned luxury and top-notch service. Its 123 rooms are all different, with antiques, gorgeous silks and marble bathrooms. Corner rooms have stunning views of Capri and Vesuvius. There is also a bar and an elegant top floor restaurant called Terrazza. The hotel is well-placed on the waterfront and overlooks the Castel dell’Ovo, the marina and the fishing village of Borgo Marinari.
Where to eat
Il Comandante via Cristoforo Colombo 45, 80133 Napoli
The top floor of the Romeo Hotel overlooks the Gulf of Naples from the harbor, and the modern and original interior is also worth seeing. The cuisine surprises with refined simplicity and sophisticated presentations.
1 Michelin star
Palazzo Petrucci via Posillipo 16 b/c, 80133 Napoli
Moving from the old town to the beach of Posillipo, it has swapped winding streets and historic architecture for a magnificent sea view stretching from the Sorrentine peninsula to the famous islands of the Gulf of Naples and Mount Vesuvius. However, the cuisine remains loyal and continues to offer local dishes in creative variations.
1 Michelin star
50 Kalò piazza Sannazzaro 201/b, 80133 Napoli
The name of this place, in a mixture of pizza baker jargon and Neapolitan numerology, means “good dough” and stands for a modern concept with solid roots in tradition, namely that of the family of owner Ciro Salvo. You have the choice between conventional or individual pizzas with seasonal products. There is also a small selection of wines.
Recommended by the Michelin Guide.